Morocco and Trust!

Morocco has been an important part of my professional, educational and political life over the past few years, largely because of the plight of the people living in the Western Sahara.  Their stories were my introduction to the country and admittedly made me biased against the government and its consistent refusal—since a 1991 referendum--to recognize the region’s right to become an independent country.  I’m afraid I’ve made myself a bit of a nuisance about the topic with those in the U.S. and in other nations, lobbying for its freedom. Colleagues at Adelphi have become impassioned about it, as well, and perhaps more effectively, with Terence Ross and Cindy Maguire filming and producing an exquisite film about the lives of the Sahrawi people. 

So when the opportunity to go back to study its schools presented itself to me, I thought it was a challenge to see the country through different eyes.  I am very glad I did. 

I visited the northern part of the country the last time, influenced by Spanish and Arabic history, language and culture.  It is a country that is predominantly Muslim and the presence of religion is much greater than in other countries I’ve been to with beautiful and majestic mosques, prayer rooms, and people kneeling in prayer on the street during their busy workdays.  While religion is present, it is striking how the traditional forms of dress of the Muslim faith (such as the burka or hijab) are more prominent in the rural areas.  In the cities, tradition has given way to Western, urban clothing.  The last time, I visited the cities of Tetouen, Rabat, Casablanca and Fez then and—the most charming place of all—Chefchaouen, with its blue medina, olive farms with slow-moving donkeys and people in dress that (not coincidentally) look like they could be in Mexico! 

This time, it was southern Morocco—Marrakech and Agadir—where I visited a wide range of schools and tried to see the country through the eyes of those who live there.  Marrakech is ringed by the majestic snow-peaked “Mountains of Atlas,” a powerful contrast to the semi-arrid nature of the area occupied by the city.  I then traveled by land to the city of Agadir, adjacent to the Atlantic Ocean with resort hotels and—after an earthquake destroyed 80% of it some decades ago—modern spare buildings stretching for miles along the sea.  There is a strong European presence, both in industry and tourism.  The influences on the educational offerings are unmistakable. 

While the Sahrawis have an inferior status in Morocco, inequalities of power by race or origin are less apparent.  However, there are reports of ongoing discrimination against Black Africans in the country.  There is a more historical and sustained discrimination against Amazigh people (Berbers) in Morocco, a type of “cultural racism” that is a challenge in schools, according to teachers and school leaders in the country.  The elite of Morocco tend to be from Germany and France, intermarrying with Moroccan people.  The increasing influence of the U.S. in Morocco (as well as social media) has resulted in a rise of English and some struggles around how language and culture are represented in the schools.

I should comment that for a second time in recent travels, my luggage did not meet me at my destination.  While one might think I learned my lesson from the last time traveling to Madagascar, I did not.  I only had the clothes on my back for the time I was there, having overbooked my time in schools and at the conference and unable to fit in shopping for replacements, washing everything by hand on a nightly basis and appearing at the conference (where I presented a paper on social media and human rights co-written by John Drew) looking like an academic vagabond.  And I elected to play the part, walking everywhere for long stretches and getting hopelessly lost several times.  But people were kind, attentive and sympathetic to my plight.

Walking the streets allowed me to hear local conversations of daily life. Here, French and (more recently) English are spoken with as much frequency as Arabic. And unlike the last time I visited, I became aware of the blending of languages (and cultures) with much of the population speaking three languages.  I must admit that I did not have time to take in the art and other parts of Moroccan cultural life on this journey as I did the last time.  I did get to witness it through the schools, however, including two schools that offered a wide range of specializations. 

The educational system in Morocco is an improving one.  All primary education (six years) is compulsory (and free of tuition) with middle level education (three years) required and leading to a diploma.  Secondary education is still an option, offered in two tracks (general and vocational) leading to the “Baccalaureat.”  There is a growing university population (the sponsoring university of the conference where I presented had 80,000 enrolled students) but they are struggling with “brain drain” from the country, with many of the talented students migrating to Europe and the Middle East.  The strong monarchy of Morocco has made education a priority and has made a rule that every classroom (public or private) must have royal portraits in each.  The monarchy is seen as strong, passed down from a very strong monarch who ruled for several decades.

 I had the opportunity to see both pubic and private schools, ranging from preschools through secondary, as well as language schools.  One day was spent visiting a vocational training school at the secondary level (offering web and graphic design and jewelry-making) that was proud of its record of inclusive education,  providing government-based scholarships equally to students with and without disabilities.  I should add here that Morocco is just now implementing long-standing policies about inclusion of special needs students.  One of the sessions I attended at the conference addressed a "pilot" of having 13 special needs girls integrated into a regular school with outstanding successes in achievement.

This first school visit was immediately followed by my arrival at a new and developing school (now preschool through 10-years-old) that embraces the philosophy and pedagogy of  Caleb Gattegno (an Egyptian educator with considerable influence in the late 20^th century in parts of Europe, Africa and the Middle East), teaching literacy through blends of color and sound as well as teaching mathematical concepts with cuisinaire rods. 

With so much educational innovation, I expected teacher education to be a priority.  I was quite surprised to find out that those who teach only need an undergraduate degree and a single week of training in pedagogy that is not offered through the university system but, instead, training centers throughout the country.  Unions are important in public education’s teaching system and this past November, there was a two-day national strike by the unions protesting recent violence against teachers and a call for more protections.

I have been honored to do these travels and write up my impressions.  I have a great respect for those who have told me their stories about their lives and their learning.  I have a great love for many of them and will always remember the lessons they have taught me with a generosity of spirit and depth of mind.  Thank you all for reading and sharing this with me!  And by the way, I did get my bag back!  I was even treated to business class on the flight home!